VersaTraction review #1

(For the final review, click here)

Done it. Tested it.

I've been to Coolangatta this Saturday.

At first they were predicting some 30000m waves for the weekend and i was ready to head north to the safe port of Noosa, then it became clear that the swell was passing by out far. So I went south confident to find small and easy conditions for my test.

But when I arrived at Rainbow Bay I was stunned to see some head high set in front of me.

I said: I'm fucked. Now I'll work my ass to get out to the line up, I will be beaten fighting with a slippery board, I will catch a too big one and slip down and die like a perfect kook.

But in truth the sets were big but unreliable. There were minutes of gaps in between, so after some watching for a bit I timed my paddling right and went out safely.

As soon as I lied down I had this weird sensation of no control. When I sat I was a bit uneasy. And then when I did the first paddle I understood what was happening:

the VersaTraction has not grip on a wetsuit! (I cleaned the wetsuit off wax beforehand)

The situation was not alarming anyway. I still had to catch a wave and I could feel the grip on my hands. The feet should work the same way, right?

I sat wide on the shoulder, as my habit when it's crowded, and waited a bit. In ten minutes along came my wave: a shoulder high one. I paddled with my body sliding sideways at every stroke and then I jumped up. And nothing happened. I already had forgotten all and was focused on my ride, which was good but had to abort due to a lady paddling out in exactly collision path with me.

In then more minutes came the "wave of the season" (hopefully not of the year!) and I had one of my best ride so far.

Then wave condition and crowd factor affected me and I only managed a few good one later on, just before calling it quit. (I was a cold, dark, rainy and windy day and after two hours and too many people around me I had enough)    

My VersaTraction test was done!

So the verdict?

Well.. once you are up and running it's just as fine as wax. But because the waves were big and fast I didn't need walk on the board that much. I believe I need some Noosa like waves to see if at any point I loose grip and slip down.

Then there's the wetsuit problem. Paddling is unsettling because you don't stay put where you want to. And sitting is fine but only as long as you don't sit on the tail with the board up, otherwise the board will slip up off you! 

I suspect that with normal shorts this won't be a problem, because of the treads of the fabric. But it's cold now.  

Also I cut the stickers keeping them on the deck and not going down on the rails. Main reason was for proper placement without folding problems. So I knew the rails were going to be slippery but still, after some white wash I managed to loose grip with my hand and almost going face down on the deck! Just once, but not funny.

So my verdict is: it works, but I need some more trying to re-evaluate the wetsuit problem and the walking on deck aspect.

Meanwhile I think I will put the leftover cuts on the rails to help there. Just on some strategic spots.

I'll write more on this.

Stay tuned. 

Fatto. Provato.

Dovevano esserci onde della madonna poi invece venerdi si e' capito che lo swell stava passando oltre. Cosi' invece di andare al riparo di Noosa, sono andato a Coolangatta avendo visto venerdi le camere che davano le solite onde da 2/3ft che amo.

Quando sono arrivato a Rainbow Bay pero' mi sono spaventato vedendo invece passare sets di onde facilmente intorno ai 2 metri. Ho stretto il culo perche' uscire a Rainbow con un longboard quando e' grosso e' un casino, e avendo appena messo il VersaTraction invece che la cera mi sono sentito fottuto.

Invece poi in effetti i set erano abbastanza distanziati e c'erano momenti di piatta. In effetti era una giornata strana. Poi tirava vento, pioveva a tratti, era buio tutto il tempo.. insomma il contrario di quello che mi immaginavo.

In ogni caso sono uscito senza drammi ed in dieci minuti ho preso la prima onda che ho poi dovuto abortire per via del traffico. E dieci minuti dopo ne ho preso una enorme che ricordero' per molto tempo. Poi ho passato molto tempo ad aspettare, a negoziare posizioni con gli altri, ed infine ne ho preso un altro po' prima di uscire, dopo due ore abbondanti, stufo della gente, dei momenti di piatta, e del freddo.

Ma il punto e': funziona?

La risposta immediata e' si. Una volta che sei su non ti accorgi della differenza.

Ma ci sono delle considerazione che meritano altre prove.

Prima di tutto, per vie delle onde grosse e potenti non ho praticamente avuto bisogno di camminare sul deck, quindi non ho messo la tavola e i piedi in posizioni strane dove avrei potuto scivolare.

Secondo, la wetsuit scivola! Credo che con un normale costume non ci sia problema, ma la muta e' liscia (e io l'avevo ripulita dalla cera) e non tiene. Se ti siedi sulla coda alzando la tavola questa tende a scapparti via da sotto, mentre quando remi la forza delle braccia trascina il busto a dx e sx ed un poco anche in avanti ed e' abbastanza fastidioso.

Quindi funziona ma non sono convinto. E' questione di abitudine o e' un problema?

Per ora non cambio e sono determinato a fare qualche altra uscita. Anche perche' l'assenza della cera si rivela una figata per quanto concerne tutto il resto.

State sintonizzati.

Heretic - Eretico

If you read my post On surfboard #2, #3 and #4, you know what I think:

Surfboard are obsolete.

No doubt.

Now, because I've time and some money to spend I decided to take the extra step: on my perfectly hand shaped and then perfectly machine reproduced epoxy surfboard, I won't use wax anymore. Fuck wax. 

Wax is a technology from the middle age. Can you believe it?
Nobody is undertaking the problem of the slippery surface like we were still in the 50s, and there's no technology, and they sell you wax.

I'm sick of it.

Wax is polluting, dirtying, annoying, stupid. A stupid solution to a stupid problem.

And polluting. You love the ocean but you discard you load of wax in it every moment.

Stop.

Some times ago I found an ad about a non slippery, transparent sticker for surfboards. It was intended for a public of wooden surfboard users. For not ruining the beauty of the boards with wax. I was surprised nobody ever mentioned this product ever, and nowhere.

I googled it but found nothing, as usual. Surf community is kind of super extremely conservative. Same as for epoxy board, you will never find real comments and evaluations, but only bullshits. Like this two:

whats wrong with just using wax? takes like 10 secs to apply

For me applying wax is part of the whole surfing process. I love the smell of new wax and the feel under my feet, I couldn't imagine using anything else! I know it does get dirty and need removing every now & then but to me surfing without wax is like taking a shit without wiping your arse? 

Wow. Geniuses.
I'm so sick of this attitude.

So I said, ok, fuck it, I'm gonna try it on my own. And the time has arrived.

This are the stickers just out of the box.

Today I spent some 1 or 2 hours removing the wax from my surfboard.

Soon I'll put this "new technology" (!) on it and probably I'll test it saturday.

Now I don't know if this is the answer. Apparently people use it, specially on other boards/sports rather than surfboards. But if someone uses it, it works, right?

Well, if it doesn't work, ok, back to stupid wax. But at least I tried it and I will know how it goes. I could talk about it knowing it, not like the geniuses.  

Faccio l'eretico.

Non saprei come vanno le cose in Italia ma sono stufo della chiusura mentale dei surfisti da queste parti e nel web.

E' impossibile trovare commenti e valutazioni su cose nuove e diverse.

Se avete letto i post Sulle tavole 2, 3 e 4, sapete come la penso: le tavole sono oggetti obsoleti. Si continua a farle come negli anni 50 e nessuno ha mai risolto il problema della scivolosità. Come se non ci fosse la tecnologia per farlo.

E sono stufo della cera che inquina, sporca e fa sostanzialmente cagare in quanto tale.

E soprattutto inquina il mare che i serfisti dicono di amare.

Cosi' ho deciso di provare questi adesivi che vedete in foto. Esistono da un po e li ho trovati pubblicizzati per un pubblico di surfisti con tavole in legno. Essendo l'adesivo trasparente, non rovina la bellezza della tavola. 

Quindi appunto e' un prodotto che esiste, lo usano alcuni con le tavole in legno, lo usano altri per altri sport, ma non si riesce a trovare commenti e valutazioni serie.

Cosi' come per le tavole in epoxy, semplicemente derise a priori, anche questo prodotto e' accompagnato da commenti di questo tipo:

cosa c'e' che no va con la cera? ci vuole un attimo a metterla

per me la cera fa parte del rito. Mi piace al tatto, all'odore, e come la sento sotto i piedi. certo sporca e occorre toglierla e rimetterla ogni tanto, ma non usarla sarebbe come non pulirsi il culo..

I geni.

Quindi basta. Oggi ho ripulito la tavola e una delle prossime sere applico gli adesivi.

Non saprei cosa aspettarmi ma almeno ci provo.

Fanculo gli altri.

A new link - Un nuovo link

I just found this blog.

It's from an italian surfer who lost a leg in an accident years ago.

He's fighting with his disability and he's working hard to find a good prosthetic which can let him surf properly. And he's also helping a kid in Bali. And he's also trying the get  enough funding to take part of ISA World Adeptive Surfing Championship. 

I'm speechless.

Well, he deserves all our respect, and more.

Check out is welcoming page, or follow the link on the right.

I'm in contact with him now. I may write some updates here every now and then.

I wish him all the best.

Ho appena trovato il blog di Fabrizio Passetti.

Fabrizio ha perso una gamba anni fa ma non ha perso l'intenzione di surfare!

Credo sia una persona degna di nota e che meriti tanto rispetto.

Non c'e' bisogno che io scriva altro, date un'occhiata al link e leggete un po'. 

Gli auguro tutto il meglio. 

New spots - Posti nuovi

Since I recovered from my health problem I've been trying few more spots, mostly for crowd reason.

Nothing secret or remote, just places less considered by the big crowd.

One is Moffat beach, north from here, one is Currumbin and the other is Kirra.

Coincidentally the first sessions I had in this places have been good, or good enough to make me think of going there again.

Moffat is a strange place, a mini point, and the waves crash on a rock bottom. I don't know much about best tides, size and stuff. Waves pick on different spots and they don't really peal. It's strange and interesting. I'm sure with the right condition can be a lot of fun. Also it's closer to home than most of the other places.

Currumbin is a hell of a place! In a good way. I'm not discovering anything and actually it gets big very easily. It already gave me a very hard/almost scary time. Again, I'm not sure what's about this spot, but it seems like it's underrated. When Snapper is pumping, Cur is huge.

I'm waiting to find the right winter day, when small and clean waves will come and all the beginner will clog Superbank, all the flying guys on shortboard will be south, all the expert will look for and wait for the best conditions, and me and few others will have fun there.

Then there's Kirra. The legend.

How the fuck can I put it in this list?

Well.. every time you go to Superbank, you drive past it. Everyone drive past it. That's the point. Kirra has world class barrels but it happens just once or twice a year. In my range size waves are never as good as the point just down the road. And there are always just few people out. So, it's not worth it, I alway think.

I tried it once, but I was too much of a beginner and I couldn't tell if it was me or the place. I struggled a lot with the current and although I had some interesting rides, I gave up, choosing the safest comfort of the Greenmount crowd.

But I just went back there and I had so much fun. Yesterday conditions were part point, part beach break. And my board loves steep water, and I made a lot of progress since that day. It was just me, some SUP, some short boarders further out near the rocks and beginners near the beach. While everybody was at Superbank. I got a lot of waves and I had so, so much fun.

Sometime I got to ride the board from the tip, with my feet close together, facing forward, sometime I got to attack (pardon me if I use this term but it's the way I perceived it) the wall, pushing up and down. Aahh.. you know it's hard to describe the feeling. But I'm still high!

Overall, in my short and limited experience, I'd say that nothing can beat good Noosa waves. But the excitement of catching all you want, even if it's just average, it's something I rarely experience. And it's goddam good.

Winter is always stingy with waves, and it's approaching fast. But I'm confident that having added a few more options, I could still have some fun. I really need to keep the momentum.

Wild life note: it was Anzac day and a metal bird, loud and fast, flew through the sky, just above the ocean, along the fantastic shore of the Gold Coast. Not exactly wild life, but worth a mention!

Da quando mi sono ripreso ho aggiunto qualche nuova location di posti serfabili nella mia cortissima lista.

Intendiamoci, se sei bravo ci sono 2000km di posti serfabili. Ma io vado per gradi e non passo certo la vita ad esplorare e provare.. ho un lavoro fisso lontano del mare e vita sociale da portare avanti.

I posti di cui parlo non sono certo segreti, anzi, il contrario, ma hanno in comune il fatto che non ci va molta gente.

Uno si chiama Moffat, a nord di qua. E' una specie di mini point, su fondo roccioso. Non sono sicuro delle condizioni con cui lavora meglio e le onde che ho visto sono un po strane. Pero' grandine e c'e' potenziale per divertirsi. Ed ovviamente ci sono solo i locals, che rende il tutto piu' semplice.

Il secondo e' Currumbin, che come Superbank, a cui sta quasi accanto, ha una storia lunga e non e' certo una scoperta.

Ma la grande folla e' attratta dal super point di Coolangatta e Cur rimane un poco più in pace. Un fatto particolare e' che qua le onde arrivano più dirette rispetto a Coolangatta e quindi sono sempre più grandi e il posto mi ha già punito una volta.

Sono certo che con la giusta disposizione della sabbia, ci siano giorni invernali di piccole e fantastiche onde, che non vedo l'ora di provare.

Poi c'e' Kirra. La leggenda.

Un tempo, prima di Superbank, Kirra era Il Posto.

Com'e' possibile che ne parlo solo ora e lo metto in questa lista?

Beh.. Kirra si scatena con tubi da mille e una notte per una o due volta l'anno. A quanto pare l'intervento dell'uomo ha snaturato il posto, e per la maggior parte del tempo e' un beach break non particolarmente attraente. Infatti ci si passa sempre accanto quando ci si reca al super point di Coolangatta. Tutti ci passano accanto e vanno oltre. C'e' sempre poca gente in acqua.

Ci avevo provato tempo fa ma forse era troppo presto per me e avevo anche faticato molto contro la corrente costante.

Ci sono tornato l'altro giorno esasperato dalla folla di Rainbow beach e mi sono divertito molto. Le condizioni erano a meta' tra point e beach break, ed arrivavano cavalloni interessanti. Quando ho beccato il punto giusto, ho fatto delle belle cavalcate. Alcune sul muso coi piedi uniti, altre un po' più aggressivo contro il muro d'acqua,  a seconda delle onde. Bellissino, la goduria aumentata dal fatto che c'erano quattro gatti più' in fondo, o alcuni beginners vicino alla spiaggia, e io ho fatto quello che volevo.

Insomma, finalmente ho aumentato il numero di opzioni disponibili.

Spero che l'inverno non sia spilorcio e mandi comunque qualche ondina divertente. Vorrei mantenere l'inerzia acquisita e portare avanti i miei piccoli progressi.

Sono arrivato ad un punto in cui se posso prendere una bella onda, mi diverto veramente.

Nota sugli animali avvistati: un jet esattamente come quello di TopGun e' passato a bassissima quota seguendo la fantastica linea costiera della Gold Coast. Velocissimo e rumoroso, mi ha ricordato che era un giorno di festa per l'Australia ed ho pensato che si, la festa me la stavo proprio godendo.

First time! - Prima volta

I was watching the last videos I shoot in Currumbin two weeks ago. Not a great day, with short rides, but still fun, with sunshine and crystal clear water.

And then I noticed this: (see pic below)

The wave was fading away and I rushed forward.
I think it's the first time ever that I cross step on the surfboard. I can do it on the Goofboard, since last year, but I never focused on it in the water, as carving and cutting back properly is what I want to be able to do.
So out of nowhere come this, which makes me happy and gives me more interesting things to think about and try the next time out.
Happy.

Stavo guardando i filmati dell'ultima sessione a Currimbin, due domeniche fa. Una sessione non certo memorabile, con giusto qualche onda divertente prima che l'alta marea si mangiasse tutto.
E cosi' mi ritrovo davanti questo fotogramma in cui sto camminando propriamente sulla tavola per cercare di salvare la cavalcata dall'onda che vuole scomparire sotto di me. Fare cross stepping non e' una cosa che non mi interessa particolarmente, e seppure riesco a farlo sulla Goofboard, non ci ho mai speso del tempo in acqua. Il motivo e' che lo vedo come il passo necessario per arrivare sul naso per poi fare nose-riding, manovra grandiosa ma che non mi attira particolarmente. Sono infatti concentrato ad imparare a fare carving per bene, girare la tavola velocemente in tutte le direzioni e comandarla a mio piacimento. Diciamo che trasferisco il mio amore per la guida alla tavola, e pretendo di imparare a guidarla come fosse un mezzo con le ruote.
E' dunque una piacevole sorpresa questa immagine di un'azione compiuta senza saperlo, che dimostra come il mio equilibrio e affiatamento con la tavola sia migliorato molto.
Spero solo che l'inverno non mi lasci a secco di onde e mi faccia perdere lo slancio attuale.
Bella sorpresa.

Wind forecast - Previsioni del vento #2

Here we go again:

Yes, it's a bit early for the weekend but fuck..



Di nuovo!
Come dicevo nell'omonimo post di gennaio, il vento sa esattamente che giorno della settimana e'. E rompe le palle a noi che non abitiamo davanti alla spiaggia e abbiamo bisogno dei weekend.

Noosa sunset

The biggest wave - L'onda piu' grande #2

The biggest wave was not really the biggest I caught.

But the most furious, yes.

The biggest wave also came and went unseen. But let me explain.

It was late, on a dark, rainy day. A good swell was hitting Noosa and I was at Little Cove catching the last waves of the day.

Just as the sun set, a darker cloud came, with thick rain and no wind. The ocean became completely grey same as the sky, and suddenly I couldn't distinguish water from air.

Everybody left and I was left there with two more guys in front of me. I just wanted a good last one.

Some shades of grey (just some..) moved ten meters in front of me where the two guys were and they didn't even notice it. I thought that this was the only chance before getting back in complete darkness. So I paddled. 

The wave lifted up and became probably shoulder high. I found myself perfectly positioned on the curl, and the board got a lot of speed.

It was dark and it was raining. I could barely see the wave. I felt it. I trimmed, I cut back, trimmed again, all at incredible speed, all unbalanced, with my arms swinging around and my body running after what my feet said. 

I don't know why I didn't wipe out. I don't know how it went, and precisely what I did. I couldn't see. I just know it was incredibly fast, and somehow at the end I was still standing up.

WTF just happened? I asked myself, smiling. 

This was the weirdest -and successful at the same time- ride I had.

I'm looking forward to experience that speed again. 

Crazy thing.

L'onda più grande non e' stata la più grande che ho preso. Ma la più' veloce e furiosa si.

In più, quest'onda non l'ho praticamente neanche vista.

Ma andiamo con ordine.

Ero a Noosa, tarda serata di un giorno grigio e piovoso. Con belle onde.

Giusto come il sole e' calato il cielo si e' coperto ancora di più ed e' venuto giù un bell'acquazzone senza vento. Ormai non si distingueva più' tra mare e cielo. Tutto grigio.

Negli stessi minuti sono andati via tutti e sono rimasto solo con due tipi seduti un poco più avanti. Io, gasato dalle belle onde, volevo solo prendere l'ultima per rientrare.

Fatto sta che nel grigio totale vedo i due tipi che parlano sollevarsi. 'Deve essere un onda' penso. E parto.

E come per magia, mi ritrovo perfettamente posizionato su un onda verticale e veloce, probabilmente alta quanto le mie spalle, che spinge con forza.

Ma e' praticamente buio e la pioggia mi acceca. Non vedo una mazza e inizio questa cavalcata allo stesso tempo ridicola e adrenalinica. Sento che spinge e reagisco, poi scendo, risalgo, giro, improvviso, non capisco niente. Passo il tempo ad un passo dal disastro ma in qualche modo non cado. Agito le braccia come un idiota e probabilmente sembro un clown che deve cadere dal filo. Ma che non cade.

Alla fine della giostra sono ancora in piedi e mi chiedo che cazzo sia successo.

Bho.

Non l'ho visto. C'ero ma non ho visto niente. Non ci ho capito una mazza.

Ero velocissimo, ho fatto cose, ma non saprei dire cosa e quando.

E' stata l'onda più veloce che abbia mai preso. probabilmente dipendeva solo dalla mia posizione. Ma non saprei dire, appunto, quale fosse.

Che minchia e' successo? Non lo so. Ma e' stato fantastico.

Catch up

I've been away for a bit too much, I know.

Busy with life and surfing!

Since February I kept surfing every weekend, and I had two stupid sessions and some very good.

I just came back from the long Easter weekend in Noosa, where it was obviously packed, but where I scored some great waves.

This morning I had this great experience that I want to put down in words.

The forecast was always the same in the last days: 3ft at around 8sec, from east. 

It was the last chance for a surf before getting into the car and drive back to Brisbane. So at 6.15am I was taking a look at Little Cove were only a few tiny little waves were coming, with 2 surfers out. I said, fuck, where are the waves? ..whatever, I'm here.. I will catch something.

I went out, spent some 15mins trying to catch some ripples above the rocks, taking turns with and old guy (a better surfer than me, btw - the other guy was closer to shore) and feeling the frustration rising. Then, while the old man was all so proud to score the only real wave passing by, I saw some white water further out, at National Park (not really out from the land, but along the headland) and said: well, this is so flat that a little paddle down there won't ruin my session. And so I went.

There was a guy with a SUP and as I came closer a nice set came and he got one.

I positioned my self where the weaves have been and sat there. And waited, probably a minute. And then another set began to brake further out on the rocks, and someone with a short board did some fancy turns. The set came to me and it was nice and clean. The guy with the SUP was somewhere else so I had nothing left than to go for the bigger.

I rode this fun, fat wave all the way to the rocks, probably a 20sec ride, and paddled back.

And so it began: on a seemingly flat morning, high tide, every 5min or so a set of 3 fat waves came to life exactly there, and I rode them, not needing to wait or negotiate position with others! I was in ecstasy! 

In truth, two boys with short boards came near me but they were trying to catch them in my inside, almost over the rocks, without great success, and we didn't cross our paths once. Actually I surfed, they only tried. 

Some guys with SUP passed by again, but without great interest on waves. And a beginner came close to me, but he was unable to catch them. 

To make it short, I've been physically alone for 30mins I think, and when I was not alone I kind of ruled the little spot! Unbelievable!

I start laughing of joy, and also at those guys walking on the tracks and checking out the ocean, seeing me waiting for nothing, and going on toward Tea Tree bay, where I guess every body was.

Oh man! What a morning!

The joy of trying and trying the same thing over the almost same wave without waiting for the others. Just pointing the one I liked and going for it. 

Some of them were steep. I caught a few on the breaking point, feeling the tail lifting high   and jumping up, with good timing, and then riding it, pushing the board against it, turning it down, walking to the nose (I don't cross step but I can go there) and feeling all the reactions under my feet.

On a side note, I saw hundreds of butterflies flying over the water, and even more on dry land, in the NP. Must have been a special day for that species, like the only day of their life or something similar. Well it was a good day indeed. :)

Stoked

I had an unexpected beautiful session last weekend.

For the first time since April '14, with my six months of nothing to help open the gap, I could ride some decent waves.

I couldn't  believe it. It only took a good wave with a bit of size and power to bring me back doing my little fun manoeuvres. I was over the moon and I still am. My mood changed completely.

I'm telling you: if I could get such few waves, I don't ask much, every weekend, I'd be a better person.

Sadly this proves two things:

1- I need good conditions to have good rides.

I guess this apply to everybody but I'm not good enough to have fun when the waves are tricky. There's always someone having great rides while I spend all my energies paddling and trying to not be such a kook.

2- The crowd factor, which is annoying for all of us, really slow me down. A lot. A lot lot.

I need to practice more than the good surfers around me, but as a matter of fact they catch all the waves all the times. If with a good swell my wave count is two, small and ugly, then my learning curve will take forever.

But focusing on the good things I now post a double picture of me surfing right and left with confidence.

I have to admit that after a year I finally put the GoPro on my board. Yes, I know, it's like another kook signature. I thought a lot about it and at the end I concluded that I needed it. Not only I love to make videos, not only it helps keep the stoke, but it's also incredibly helpful in understanding your errors.

DIY Rehab

I think I’ve found a solution to get fit.

J

Wind Forecast

Look at this picture.

See how the wind is blowing one way all week, then from another direction in time for the weekend, then back to previouse direction by Monday.

 

Great. Right.

This means locals living by the beach will surf everyday while weekend surfers/commuters will save time and energy staying home. And then from Monday locals can surf again, everyday.

 

Do you know how many times this happen? How can the wind knows exactly which day is??

 

This is so, so, so, so unjust.

Negotiation

A friend of mine wants to go to Noosa on Saturday early in the morning.

Another one wants to go to Currumbin on Sunday, any time.

I’d like to surf both days but I’m not sure I’ve the strength to do that. Probably not yet.

Whatever I decide I’ll have two passengers in the car coming to the beach with me who don’t surf. Who’ll need to go to the toilet, have breakfast or lunch, or afternoon tea.. who wouldn’t enjoy it if it rains or if there’s no shade..

And who won’t let me be in the water at 6am. And not even 7am.

 

Life is a constant negotiation.

Those who surf every day without coming to term with relations and social life don’t live a real life. I refuse to accept them as real life.

And I dream about it.

Stephanie in the water

I watched Stefanie in the water and I was disappointed.

First of all it seemed shorter than other surf movies, and it abruptly finishes at the start of 2012 season when Stephanie is ready to win back the world title after a troubled year. Just as the 2012 "revenge" is getting started the movie ends stating that she won it. Well, thanks.

So, from one side it's not an account of her sport career and achievements, it's too condensed for that, it's missing the "come back", and probably they didn't want to make that kind of movie at all.

But from the other hand Stephanie doesn't say much of herself.

There's a good part about the assault she was victim of, but there's not much about her before of after that.  So it's not a portrait either.

Someone would say: well, the key it's in the title, Stephanie in the water, and that's it. Probably you are right. But where is the storytelling? What can I keep with me after watching this movie? Not much, really.

I can't say she's a nice person, I can't say she's not, I can't say she's more focused than other surfers, or that she would kill someone to win a contest, or that she would give up everything for ..whatever.

After watching it I know her as little as before.

I don't know, I think they missed a good opportunity.  

The part I loved the most is something that she says at the beginning, when she's half asleep in the bed and she teases the others saying that she doesn't need to be in the water cause she's dreaming/visualising the action in her mind.

Well, a lot a great sportsmen at the pick of their careers used "to see" the action, how the event unfold in their mind, in order to re-live (or pre-live) the action step by step, and being deadly perfect when the moment arrives.

She was teasing but I believe there was some good truth in what she said.

Unfortunately there was no searching from the authors on that.

Overall, they just scraped the surface of a world and then left.

Unfinished.

:(

2014

And so there's no much left of this horrible year.

And I'm glad.

This should have been my third year of surfing but it's not. I'm missing six months.

Two posts ago I wrote that my waiting was finally over but unfortunately it's not. 

My mood changes like wind, my body is getting fatter, my mind it's stuck somewhere in the ocean and I feel like shit all the times.

In march I had so many great sessions and I was improving drastically, then the good swells passed, I had commitments, I slowed down, and then my health plummeted and that was it.

I don't know about the future. I hope 2014 will take away all the bad things and let me free.

There are people living all their life surfing basically every day. I love it as much as they do, but hey, seems like I'm asking too much. Few hours a month is too much. 

Please, please, please, let me free.

She's my champion!

Stephanie Gilmore won her 6th world title two weeks ago, and right now the guys are battling for the man crown in Hawaii. Mick Fanning and Kelly Slater the front runners.

But seriously: who cares of this guys and girls doing space moves?

 

Instead, I've found my hero in: Chelsea Williams!

 

She just won her first longboard world title in China, on 3 to 4ft waves (says the report).

 

Look at this pic:

This pic belong to its owner ASP / Will H-S

How beautiful is what she's doing?

First: I could surf that wave. Second: I basically have the same board!! And I mean: same. Third: my focus in the last year (in which I didn't surf for almost 8 out of 12 months) was to learn just that turn.

Leaving aside my health, I know I was on right path to make that happen.

 

I look at that picture and I just dream.

 

Fourth: she lives in Gold Coast, and that means I could meet her. I just asked her friendship on FB. She doesn't have a official page, it seems.

No, I'm not going to stalk her! I just find it great to see just a simple girl from around here doing something special, but also something I may -may- be able to learn and do it myself.

19 July - 29 Nov

This last weekend in Noosa, main beach, the ocean was flat.

I thought that since the physiotherapist told me to paddle in a lake it would have been fine.

Once there I thought to go and check Tea Tree to see if something was coming in around the headland. And there were small riddles. I was happy, but worried and disappointed.

Happy because there were small waves in a flat ocean, worried about my shoulder, my stamina, the lack of practice and the rocks under the water, disappointed because I wanted bigger waves.

I didn’t know what to expect. I took into account the fact that paddling from the beach to the point could have been already too much and I was ready to just watch the other.

I paddled, steady and slow, and there I was. I waited, observing the others, the tiny waves and the pack hierarchy. I paddled a bit, to put me in some sort of position. Then I paddled out of someone else path. I was surprised by my shoulder. I still had no pain. I couldn’t sprint but there I was, moving left and right, here and there, almost ok.

After some time finally my wave came to me. I paddled and I lost it. Not fast enough. But I had no bad feelings. I kept my mind serene. Sure I wanted to surf, but I wasn’t supposed to be there, my shoulder wasn’t supposed to work, the waves weren’t supposed to be there. It was ok.

I lost one or two more for nosediving. I thought to go forward to help the board down the face, but it didn’t work. I lost other two or more again for not paddling fast enough. Then finally I got it. I jumped up and I had the most weird feeling on what to do with my feet. A sort of “now what?” that left me so confused and disappointed. This was the worst moment of my coming back. I couldn’t believe it. It was like I forgot everything, how to enjoy the ride.

After sometime I got another one and this time I didn’t think. It was so small it was disappearing under my feet and I had to go left, instead of the usual right, to keep it alive. Because of that I didn’t think and just acted and I had a small revenge: my body knew.

That was it.

The waves grew up in size, better surfers (locals) were magically in the water, and I had to paddle more and basically I run out of strength. I think I lasted just over one hour.

After I came out arrived some very fun waves and the locals were having a lot of fun. It was good to watch too.

The forecast said it was a no surf day, the tide wave high and the wind onshore. Nevertheless the locals had a great late afternoon of fun and I was (am) so envious. They can surf- every- single- stupid- day. I was there because it was supposed to be flat. They probably had a go early at dawn, but they just came out of nowhere the minute something arrived.

Anyway, this was the end of 4 months wait. 4 months of physical and mental pain. I have a lot of work to do ahead. I hope in few months I could be where I was when I left. This is what will make me happy.   

 

This was a "no surf today" day in Noosa..

New beginning

Its' like I'm starting from 0.

Following my physiotherapist's suggestion I went to the lake with the cheap 8'2 board and started paddling on the flat water. Well beyond kookness.

I think I made 30m when I felt the pain in my right shoulder and by 50m I was tired anyway. I insisted a bit, resting, paddling a bit, resting, paddling a bit. I realized that I won't be able to catch a wave right now, unless it's one of those where you don't really need to paddle. But the point is: I'm really really weak. I've a whole lot of work to do on me. Shit.

I'm happy because the day I'll hit the water again is coming, but at the same time I'm down because it will take time to get back where I was. Not to mention my ability on the board. Where will I be? No idea mate. But at least I'm doing something: I finally jumped back on my Goofboard and on the Surfstik skate. On both I noticed I could stand and use them, but I lost a lot of confidence and abilities. A lot.

I need to find the time to work on my body and on those two toys.

I want my surfing back.

Death 2 Hipsters

Here's a funny video about the last post
:)

Hipsters

The other day I came across this:

and a whole world opened up before me!

Unfortunately people tend to follow trends all over the world. I've been living in Milan for too many years and I got sick of people minding your clothes and shoes.

(Milan is a place where people don't talk to you casually at the bus stop, and not even at the pub. And girls don't talk to you if you don't have the right shoes. One afternoon, summertime, 35 Celsius, we went to a pub to watch a soccer match and have a beer, with shorts and flip flop. They didn't "see" us for 15 minutes and we left. We were not welcome) 

That's why I love Queensland, a place were people really don't care about this whole  bullshit. And that's why I'm so sad to realise that there are surfers minding their look while they should worry only about the next wave.

Not that I didn't cross my path, waves, with them so far. A part for some young funny guys in Noosa that I came to recognise and  surf without leg ropes, the others I saw have always been sad, not friendly, not happy, annoying surfers.

But I didn't know there was like a trend going on. A cool contest for the cool surfers. 

Wow. You know, if you are a teenager I think you are allowed to follow ideas, people, styles. It's part of the growing up process. But if you are over twenty well.. wake up! Get a life!

Another thing that come to my mind it's about the comments you get on forums or after the news articles.   

Well, you get trolls and haters everywhere nowadays, so that's just normal.

But I laugh at those comment such as:

"A kook with leg rope is more dangerous than an expert surfer without it".

My God. Are you dumb? Do people think before writing? This statement is not in topic. The problem is: if you surf without leg rope and you loose your board, someone can get injured. Full stop. You can ask: is this a problem worth addressing? If so, how can it be solved or reduced? Wtf have the kooks to do with this?

Another dumb one is something like:

"There were no leg ropes before so that's real surfing and you can go f***yourself".

Yes, right.

I love people recalling the old good days. Like a handmade fiberglass board is better than an epoxy because that's how they made them in the fifties. 

Exactly as this Ford:

is better than the one you bought last year because that's the way it used to be.

Yes, right.

So, at the end what I wanted to say is that I dislike people who care too much of their look. I think it's sad surfers waste time with this. I think many people on internet write stuff without thinking, or maybe they don't have a brain to think with.

Carveboard skateboard review - Surfstik

Edit - 2019

Carveboard is an American brand and it seems they are not in business anymore!

It’s a skateboard made with only surfing in mind and it’s different from all the rest. The Surfstik is the little brother with Polyurethane, conic wheels and manageable size.
When I got it, I never skated before in my life. I spent a few nights to be able to use it on a flat tarmac, then months going down a gentle hill (video 1).

When this was mastered, we moved to a steeper hill for some serious carving (video 2), but I felt that those wheels were always close to lose grip. And my old ass wasn’t happy.
That’s why I bought the big brother, with tires (video 3).

My evaluation.

Both models are made for carving and carving only. It’s a pain to go anywhere with them. But down the hill.. they are super fun! Great great fun!

Does it help for surfing?
Yes. It gives the chance to lean and compress and release the legs like you are supposed to do in the surf. I find it especially useful for backhand cut back.

Would I recommend it?
Yes, either as an addition to your skateboard quiver or specifically for surf training.

La Carveboard e' (o dovrei dire -era-) una ditta americana che ha prodotto questa linea di skateboard concepiata solo e soltanto per il surf training.

Tirarono fuori prima un modello enorme con pneumatici al posto delle solite ruotine da skate, poi proposero una versione con ruote piu' convenzionali, anche se a tronco di cono e specifiche per il cosidetto Surfstik, con l'intento di avvicinarsi al mercato piu' ampio degli skaters di strada (senza successo).

Per quanto mi riguarda non ho mai posseduto ne provato uno skate in vita mia.

Ho comprato il Surfstik col solo intento di migliorare il mio surf.

Iniziando da zero, ho da prima preso confidenza in piano, lungo il fiume, poi in un parcheggio leggermente inclinato per provare a curvare, poi sono passato ad una discesa vera e propria, anche se non ripida.

Ho passato qualche mese a cimentarmi con la discesa dietro casa per due o tre volte alla settimana.

Parlo di discesa perche', non avendo nessuna conoscenza del mondo dello skate, e volendo simulare il surf, non ho pensato minimamente agli skatepark ma mi e' venuto naturale cercare un posto dove potessi andare senza all'infinito, come in acqua. 

Il primo video l'ho fatto quando ero in grado di gestire la discesa senza piu' problemi. Infatti non uso neanche tutta la largezza della strada per ridurre la velocita'.

Non so quanto sia chiaro dal video ma l'inclinazione che raggiunge e l'angolo di curva e' nettamente superiore ad uno skate "normale". Arrivato a quel punto, ho cercato una discesa piu' ripida che richiedesse carvate serie di 180 gradi o quasi (secondo video).

Il problema della ripidita' elevata con il Surstik e' che le classiche ruote di poliestere non sono in grado di garantire l'aderenza necessaria. Una volta giunto a quei livelli di inclinazione e forze laterali, ero sempre sul filo della caduta.

Ed e' effettivamente per quel motivo che la prima versione del Carveboard aveva gli pneumatici.

Dopo qualche anno ne ho trovato uno di seconda mano e non ho resistito (terzo video).

Valutazione.

Entrambe le versioni sono da intendere per un uso in carvata continua, e sono una figata.

Qualsiasi altro uso direi che non ha senso. Entrambi hanno trucks originali, con molle, e sono cosi' soffici che prendere velocita' e' altamente sconsigliato.

Anche pensare di andarci in giro non ha senso. Uno e' gigantesco e pensate, e la posizione esterna delle ruote di entrambi i modelli da molto fastidio se proprio si vuole spingere col piede.  

Aiuta per il surf?

Si. Si ripete all'infinito il movimento "rail to rail", front and back, che poi in acqua si traduce in cutback o topturn classici.

Rispetto al Carver?

E' una cosa diversa. Gli skate come il Carver, pur essendo piu' "normali", possono essere usati per fare gli snap di coda che ora sono un must con le tavolette. Sono piu' versatili e possono essere goduti meglio soprattutto da chi fa skate per amore e non per training.

Tuttavia il Carveboard garantisce tanta, tanta goduria, insegna al cervello i meccanismi di compressione e rilascio delle gambe che poi sono fondamentali in acqua, e insegna quei movimenti basilari che il principiante ha difficolta' a ripetere con costanza.

La versione australiana, chiamata Streetboardz, e' tutt'ora utilizzata nelle surf school (quarto video).

Pastime

Instead of surfing, I'm spending my spare time walking among shops like a pensioner.

Last Sunday, while you guys were out surfing, I saw a new skateboard shop in a new shopping centre.

I always look for big skateboards, but traditional skates, however big they are, are not enough for me.

I'd like to have something I can walk on, and cross steps, like on a surfboard. I saw some of them un youtube.

Then, just before leaving, in a corner, almost hidden from view, I saw this beauty:

It's more than a meter long, very heavy, great. 

Imagine to speed it up a bit, and then let the momentum do its thing, while you control it walking up and down on it.

I think it's great.

I'm really keen to buy something like it. (lets forget about my -still to start- rehab process for now..)

The 3 balls

I've been away sick.

More than sick: broken.

Physically, and probably mentally, I've touched the lowest point of my life.

I'm not going to write down details, but my rehabilitation goes through 3 little plastic balls inside 3 plastic cylinders, connected. Like a baby toy. I still fear them. Not fun at all.

Now I dare to think that I can see the end of the tunnel. I dare to think that by the end of the month I'll be able to start doing some physical activity. I dare to think that I need to plan how to get back on track. I dare to think that maybe for Christmas I'll be surfing again. It's not that far.

Today, Sunday, I took the car. It was a beautiful warm day. I passed by the garage and thought about my surfboard in there, in the dark, since late July. I thought about putting it on the roof and driving up to the coast. In those few seconds I dreamt about me walking at National Park, and hitting the water at Tea Tree in a beautiful day like this one.

I realised that that day, I will probably cry a bit.