19 July - 29 Nov

This last weekend in Noosa, main beach, the ocean was flat.

I thought that since the physiotherapist told me to paddle in a lake it would have been fine.

Once there I thought to go and check Tea Tree to see if something was coming in around the headland. And there were small riddles. I was happy, but worried and disappointed.

Happy because there were small waves in a flat ocean, worried about my shoulder, my stamina, the lack of practice and the rocks under the water, disappointed because I wanted bigger waves.

I didn’t know what to expect. I took into account the fact that paddling from the beach to the point could have been already too much and I was ready to just watch the other.

I paddled, steady and slow, and there I was. I waited, observing the others, the tiny waves and the pack hierarchy. I paddled a bit, to put me in some sort of position. Then I paddled out of someone else path. I was surprised by my shoulder. I still had no pain. I couldn’t sprint but there I was, moving left and right, here and there, almost ok.

After some time finally my wave came to me. I paddled and I lost it. Not fast enough. But I had no bad feelings. I kept my mind serene. Sure I wanted to surf, but I wasn’t supposed to be there, my shoulder wasn’t supposed to work, the waves weren’t supposed to be there. It was ok.

I lost one or two more for nosediving. I thought to go forward to help the board down the face, but it didn’t work. I lost other two or more again for not paddling fast enough. Then finally I got it. I jumped up and I had the most weird feeling on what to do with my feet. A sort of “now what?” that left me so confused and disappointed. This was the worst moment of my coming back. I couldn’t believe it. It was like I forgot everything, how to enjoy the ride.

After sometime I got another one and this time I didn’t think. It was so small it was disappearing under my feet and I had to go left, instead of the usual right, to keep it alive. Because of that I didn’t think and just acted and I had a small revenge: my body knew.

That was it.

The waves grew up in size, better surfers (locals) were magically in the water, and I had to paddle more and basically I run out of strength. I think I lasted just over one hour.

After I came out arrived some very fun waves and the locals were having a lot of fun. It was good to watch too.

The forecast said it was a no surf day, the tide wave high and the wind onshore. Nevertheless the locals had a great late afternoon of fun and I was (am) so envious. They can surf- every- single- stupid- day. I was there because it was supposed to be flat. They probably had a go early at dawn, but they just came out of nowhere the minute something arrived.

Anyway, this was the end of 4 months wait. 4 months of physical and mental pain. I have a lot of work to do ahead. I hope in few months I could be where I was when I left. This is what will make me happy.   

 

This was a "no surf today" day in Noosa..