Another one wants to go to Currumbin on Sunday, any time.
I’d like to surf both days but I’m not sure I’ve the strength
to do that. Probably not yet.
Whatever I decide I’ll have two passengers in the car coming
to the beach with me who don’t surf. Who’ll need to go to the toilet, have
breakfast or lunch, or afternoon tea.. who wouldn’t enjoy it if it rains or if
there’s no shade..
And who won’t let me be in the water at 6am. And not even
7am.
Life is a constant negotiation.
Those who surf every day without coming to term with
relations and social life don’t live a real life. I refuse to accept them as
real life.
And I dream about it.
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