Coolangatta is delivering a few weeks of beautiful fun waves.
Unfortunately I missed most of it being sick, and having to surf only once in the weekend due to social commitments.
How I wish I could be there every day!
Anyway..
Saturday was a beautiful surf day! I think it was the best conditions I ever seen there. Conditions where I too could be in the water, I mean.
Waves were 1 to 2m high, depending on the set, with large (or long) faces and tubing.
Small tubes, where people have to crunch down to fit in it. But still tubes.
Since the weather was horrible it was busy but not that much, and I could find some waves for me.
But.
I couldn’t surf them!
I already knew I had problems with crushing waves, problems being not going fast enough to escape the white water. And unfortunately that has been confirmed.
I tried many times wiping out consistently.
I could see the water rising up under me, becoming vertical, and then crushing, and I couldn’t get out of there.
But I didn’t get frustrated or anything. It was actually a great experience and it made me think more about what I’m doing, how I’m doing it. And also, the waves were beautiful and there were surfers doing some amazing stuff. It was great just to be there.
I enjoyed it!
Unfortunately I missed most of it being sick, and having to surf only once in the weekend due to social commitments.
How I wish I could be there every day!
Anyway..
Saturday was a beautiful surf day! I think it was the best conditions I ever seen there. Conditions where I too could be in the water, I mean.
Waves were 1 to 2m high, depending on the set, with large (or long) faces and tubing.
Small tubes, where people have to crunch down to fit in it. But still tubes.
Since the weather was horrible it was busy but not that much, and I could find some waves for me.
But.
I couldn’t surf them!
I already knew I had problems with crushing waves, problems being not going fast enough to escape the white water. And unfortunately that has been confirmed.
I tried many times wiping out consistently.
I could see the water rising up under me, becoming vertical, and then crushing, and I couldn’t get out of there.
But I didn’t get frustrated or anything. It was actually a great experience and it made me think more about what I’m doing, how I’m doing it. And also, the waves were beautiful and there were surfers doing some amazing stuff. It was great just to be there.
I enjoyed it!
In queste settimane a Coolangatta arrivano onde medio piccole, o medio grandi, e sempre belle. Non che sia un veterano ma negli ultimi anni non ricordo un autunno/inverno cosi bello.
Comunque, sabato i set variavano da uno ai due metri abbondanti e la cosa migliore e’ che le onde avevano una faccia molto estesa e tubavano. Tubi piccoli, se fossero stati piu’ grandi io non sarei potuto essere in acqua, ma sempre belli da vedere. Era uno spettacolo.
Sfortunatamente ho avuto la conferma che io non riesco a serfare con onde cosi.
Avevo gia’ avuto degli indizi con onde piccole, ma questa volta e’ stato chiaro.
Non sono abbastanza veloce e l’acqua semplicemente mi manca da sotto i piedi e mi rovescio con tutta l’onda. Credo di dover stare un passo piu’ avanti e magari accucciarmi anche come fanno quasi tutti. Ma vabbe’.. arrivera’ anche quello.
Intanto posso dire che nonostante non abbia combinato nulla, e’ stata una bella sessione perche’ le onde erano ipnotizzanti e la gente intorno a me faceva i numeri. Ed in piu’ comunque ho avuto modo di provarci senza problemi di traffico o stress.
Credo che fossero le onde piu’ belle che ho avuto a portata di mano, in assoluto.
Adesso ho un’altro motivo per impegnarmi a migliorare ancora. .
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