The purchase of the noserider meant 'change' for my surfing.
I didn't know what to expect and how long it would have take me to learn to noseride.
But I felt ready, and in fact walking on the deck and nose ride has been a nice and fairly simple task. Don't get me wrong. I may look like a crab and my nose rides are nothing memorable. But I' doing it.
The point is the new board rides so differently from my progressive longboard.
It is like asking me, bagging me for a bottom turn, trim, and straight to the nose. All the time.
This is opening new realm of awareness, I would say.
My feet feel the board and I adjust to it. One board wants to go up and down, wants speed. The other wants to glide forever.
I'm kind of re-learning my approach to waves. But it's not always automatic to switch. One problem I created is that sometimes I go for a bottom turn when using the progressive board on a steep wall. And I fuck up the wave because it takes so long to go down and turn that the wall is already closing on me. While in the past, on a steep wall, I always kept the board up high for the first second or two.
On the opposite, last Saturday I managed to push the noserider up and down the face a few times. The board felt very stiff, but I kind of forced it into it.
I'm happy because, in the realm of the recreational surfers, I feel I'm at a decent point. And now my brain is working on this new differentiation that adds "things" to my surfing. I already feel a bit more complete.
Surfing is good. :)
I didn't know what to expect and how long it would have take me to learn to noseride.
But I felt ready, and in fact walking on the deck and nose ride has been a nice and fairly simple task. Don't get me wrong. I may look like a crab and my nose rides are nothing memorable. But I' doing it.
The point is the new board rides so differently from my progressive longboard.
It is like asking me, bagging me for a bottom turn, trim, and straight to the nose. All the time.
This is opening new realm of awareness, I would say.
My feet feel the board and I adjust to it. One board wants to go up and down, wants speed. The other wants to glide forever.
I'm kind of re-learning my approach to waves. But it's not always automatic to switch. One problem I created is that sometimes I go for a bottom turn when using the progressive board on a steep wall. And I fuck up the wave because it takes so long to go down and turn that the wall is already closing on me. While in the past, on a steep wall, I always kept the board up high for the first second or two.
On the opposite, last Saturday I managed to push the noserider up and down the face a few times. The board felt very stiff, but I kind of forced it into it.
I'm happy because, in the realm of the recreational surfers, I feel I'm at a decent point. And now my brain is working on this new differentiation that adds "things" to my surfing. I already feel a bit more complete.
Surfing is good. :)
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| This pic belongs to waveanatomy |
L'acquisto della noserider ha significato cambiamento.
Non sapevo cosa aspettarmi ma mi sentivo pronto, ed infatti camminare e stare sul naso e' venuto subito abbastanza naturale. Lo facevo gia' anche con l'altra in fin dei conti. Non che sia bravo. Probabilmente sembro un granchio ubriaco, ma non importa.
Cio' che importa e' che sono diventato piu' cosciente di cio' che faccio.
I miei piedi sentono la tavola e mi aggiusto ad essa. Una tavola vuole velocita' su e giu' per la faccia dell'onda. Un'altra vuole puntare dritto in perenne trimming.
Surfo in maniera diversa in accordo con la tavola. Ne sono felice. Ma creo anche problemi. Qualche volta mi trovo a puntare giu' per il bottom turn mentre sono sulla progressive ed un muro verticale gia' si chiude su di me. In passato non l'ho mai fatto. Sono sempre stato in alto per i primi secondi di un'onda ripida e veloce.
Sabato invece ho mandato la noserider su e giu' la faccia dell'onda come faccio con l'altra. Ho dovuto spingere. Non voleva!
Sono contento. Sento che le due tavole mi stanno costringendo ad essere piu' consapevole delle cose. Ed il repertorio si fa un poco piu' completo. Nell'insieme dei surfisti della domenica mi sento ad un punto di sana decenza.
Com'e' bello surfare. :)
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