DIY Rehab

I think I’ve found a solution to get fit.

J

Wind Forecast

Look at this picture.

See how the wind is blowing one way all week, then from another direction in time for the weekend, then back to previouse direction by Monday.

 

Great. Right.

This means locals living by the beach will surf everyday while weekend surfers/commuters will save time and energy staying home. And then from Monday locals can surf again, everyday.

 

Do you know how many times this happen? How can the wind knows exactly which day is??

 

This is so, so, so, so unjust.

Negotiation

A friend of mine wants to go to Noosa on Saturday early in the morning.

Another one wants to go to Currumbin on Sunday, any time.

I’d like to surf both days but I’m not sure I’ve the strength to do that. Probably not yet.

Whatever I decide I’ll have two passengers in the car coming to the beach with me who don’t surf. Who’ll need to go to the toilet, have breakfast or lunch, or afternoon tea.. who wouldn’t enjoy it if it rains or if there’s no shade..

And who won’t let me be in the water at 6am. And not even 7am.

 

Life is a constant negotiation.

Those who surf every day without coming to term with relations and social life don’t live a real life. I refuse to accept them as real life.

And I dream about it.

Stephanie in the water

I watched Stefanie in the water and I was disappointed.

First of all it seemed shorter than other surf movies, and it abruptly finishes at the start of 2012 season when Stephanie is ready to win back the world title after a troubled year. Just as the 2012 "revenge" is getting started the movie ends stating that she won it. Well, thanks.

So, from one side it's not an account of her sport career and achievements, it's too condensed for that, it's missing the "come back", and probably they didn't want to make that kind of movie at all.

But from the other hand Stephanie doesn't say much of herself.

There's a good part about the assault she was victim of, but there's not much about her before of after that.  So it's not a portrait either.

Someone would say: well, the key it's in the title, Stephanie in the water, and that's it. Probably you are right. But where is the storytelling? What can I keep with me after watching this movie? Not much, really.

I can't say she's a nice person, I can't say she's not, I can't say she's more focused than other surfers, or that she would kill someone to win a contest, or that she would give up everything for ..whatever.

After watching it I know her as little as before.

I don't know, I think they missed a good opportunity.  

The part I loved the most is something that she says at the beginning, when she's half asleep in the bed and she teases the others saying that she doesn't need to be in the water cause she's dreaming/visualising the action in her mind.

Well, a lot a great sportsmen at the pick of their careers used "to see" the action, how the event unfold in their mind, in order to re-live (or pre-live) the action step by step, and being deadly perfect when the moment arrives.

She was teasing but I believe there was some good truth in what she said.

Unfortunately there was no searching from the authors on that.

Overall, they just scraped the surface of a world and then left.

Unfinished.

:(