Frustration #2

I was waiting for a frustrating day.

I was waiting because of that many good days I had lately.

I knew It would have come and I was getting ready.

The last two or three sessions haven't been great, in fact. Mostly due to the conditions and partly due to the crowd. But that's the good news: 1) I was psychologically ready for that to happen and 2) I understood a bit more about my frustrating days.

I'm not sure but maybe I'm on the track to understand when people (surfers) say that the Ocean teach you to be patient. In my first two years of surfing I've been pretty stressed about -not- catching waves and/or wasting them with stupid nose dives or wipe outs. So now, it may depends because of my improving, I can live the waiting with a more relaxed approach, and enjoy more my time in the water.

This is not to say that I don't curse the other surfers and stuff, but I now know that there's not point in cursing against the Ocean, at least! There's nothing I could do if there are no sets for me when all the good surfers have taken a wave.

The last session below Greenmount has been the most disappointing. Waves were small and the low tide made a very strange condition with a powerful side current which effected the waves too. There weren't too many people but there weren't many rideable waves either.

In days like this I'd spent my time waiting and doing nothing and cursing all the time and going back home feeling crap. This time around I waited and kept looking for a good spot and chated with my friend and enjoyed the water and caught what I could, until three hours later bigger waves came around beside Greenmount and I had some great, exciting, partly scary, a bit painfull rides.

I've learned that even if my skills are improving and my board is a rocket, I can't surf some waves in some conditions. I've learned that those frustrating days in the past were not because of me only. And that even in a day like that, if I'm ready when the right wave comes, I can get a beautiful experience.