I had an unexpected beautiful session last weekend.
For the first time since April '14, with my six months of nothing to help open the gap, I could ride some decent waves.
I couldn't believe it. It only took a good wave with a bit of size and power to bring me back doing my little fun manoeuvres. I was over the moon and I still am. My mood changed completely.
I'm telling you: if I could get such few waves, I don't ask much, every weekend, I'd be a better person.
Sadly this proves two things:
1- I need good conditions to have good rides.
I guess this apply to everybody but I'm not good enough to have fun when the waves are tricky. There's always someone having great rides while I spend all my energies paddling and trying to not be such a kook.
2- The crowd factor, which is annoying for all of us, really slow me down. A lot. A lot lot.
I need to practice more than the good surfers around me, but as a matter of fact they catch all the waves all the times. If with a good swell my wave count is two, small and ugly, then my learning curve will take forever.
But focusing on the good things I now post a double picture of me surfing right and left with confidence.
I have to admit that after a year I finally put the GoPro on my board. Yes, I know, it's like another kook signature. I thought a lot about it and at the end I concluded that I needed it. Not only I love to make videos, not only it helps keep the stoke, but it's also incredibly helpful in understanding your errors.
