New beginning

Its' like I'm starting from 0.

Following my physiotherapist's suggestion I went to the lake with the cheap 8'2 board and started paddling on the flat water. Well beyond kookness.

I think I made 30m when I felt the pain in my right shoulder and by 50m I was tired anyway. I insisted a bit, resting, paddling a bit, resting, paddling a bit. I realized that I won't be able to catch a wave right now, unless it's one of those where you don't really need to paddle. But the point is: I'm really really weak. I've a whole lot of work to do on me. Shit.

I'm happy because the day I'll hit the water again is coming, but at the same time I'm down because it will take time to get back where I was. Not to mention my ability on the board. Where will I be? No idea mate. But at least I'm doing something: I finally jumped back on my Goofboard and on the Surfstik skate. On both I noticed I could stand and use them, but I lost a lot of confidence and abilities. A lot.

I need to find the time to work on my body and on those two toys.

I want my surfing back.

Death 2 Hipsters

Here's a funny video about the last post
:)

Hipsters

The other day I came across this:

and a whole world opened up before me!

Unfortunately people tend to follow trends all over the world. I've been living in Milan for too many years and I got sick of people minding your clothes and shoes.

(Milan is a place where people don't talk to you casually at the bus stop, and not even at the pub. And girls don't talk to you if you don't have the right shoes. One afternoon, summertime, 35 Celsius, we went to a pub to watch a soccer match and have a beer, with shorts and flip flop. They didn't "see" us for 15 minutes and we left. We were not welcome) 

That's why I love Queensland, a place were people really don't care about this whole  bullshit. And that's why I'm so sad to realise that there are surfers minding their look while they should worry only about the next wave.

Not that I didn't cross my path, waves, with them so far. A part for some young funny guys in Noosa that I came to recognise and  surf without leg ropes, the others I saw have always been sad, not friendly, not happy, annoying surfers.

But I didn't know there was like a trend going on. A cool contest for the cool surfers. 

Wow. You know, if you are a teenager I think you are allowed to follow ideas, people, styles. It's part of the growing up process. But if you are over twenty well.. wake up! Get a life!

Another thing that come to my mind it's about the comments you get on forums or after the news articles.   

Well, you get trolls and haters everywhere nowadays, so that's just normal.

But I laugh at those comment such as:

"A kook with leg rope is more dangerous than an expert surfer without it".

My God. Are you dumb? Do people think before writing? This statement is not in topic. The problem is: if you surf without leg rope and you loose your board, someone can get injured. Full stop. You can ask: is this a problem worth addressing? If so, how can it be solved or reduced? Wtf have the kooks to do with this?

Another dumb one is something like:

"There were no leg ropes before so that's real surfing and you can go f***yourself".

Yes, right.

I love people recalling the old good days. Like a handmade fiberglass board is better than an epoxy because that's how they made them in the fifties. 

Exactly as this Ford:

is better than the one you bought last year because that's the way it used to be.

Yes, right.

So, at the end what I wanted to say is that I dislike people who care too much of their look. I think it's sad surfers waste time with this. I think many people on internet write stuff without thinking, or maybe they don't have a brain to think with.