I've been away for a bit too much, I know.
Busy with life and surfing!
Since February I kept surfing every weekend, and I had two stupid sessions and some very good.
I just came back from the long Easter weekend in Noosa, where it was obviously packed, but where I scored some great waves.
This morning I had this great experience that I want to put down in words.
The forecast was always the same in the last days: 3ft at around 8sec, from east.
It was the last chance for a surf before getting into the car and drive back to Brisbane. So at 6.15am I was taking a look at Little Cove were only a few tiny little waves were coming, with 2 surfers out. I said, fuck, where are the waves? ..whatever, I'm here.. I will catch something.
I went out, spent some 15mins trying to catch some ripples above the rocks, taking turns with and old guy (a better surfer than me, btw - the other guy was closer to shore) and feeling the frustration rising. Then, while the old man was all so proud to score the only real wave passing by, I saw some white water further out, at National Park (not really out from the land, but along the headland) and said: well, this is so flat that a little paddle down there won't ruin my session. And so I went.
There was a guy with a SUP and as I came closer a nice set came and he got one.
I positioned my self where the weaves have been and sat there. And waited, probably a minute. And then another set began to brake further out on the rocks, and someone with a short board did some fancy turns. The set came to me and it was nice and clean. The guy with the SUP was somewhere else so I had nothing left than to go for the bigger.
I rode this fun, fat wave all the way to the rocks, probably a 20sec ride, and paddled back.
And so it began: on a seemingly flat morning, high tide, every 5min or so a set of 3 fat waves came to life exactly there, and I rode them, not needing to wait or negotiate position with others! I was in ecstasy!
In truth, two boys with short boards came near me but they were trying to catch them in my inside, almost over the rocks, without great success, and we didn't cross our paths once. Actually I surfed, they only tried.
Some guys with SUP passed by again, but without great interest on waves. And a beginner came close to me, but he was unable to catch them.
To make it short, I've been physically alone for 30mins I think, and when I was not alone I kind of ruled the little spot! Unbelievable!
I start laughing of joy, and also at those guys walking on the tracks and checking out the ocean, seeing me waiting for nothing, and going on toward Tea Tree bay, where I guess every body was.
Oh man! What a morning!
The joy of trying and trying the same thing over the almost same wave without waiting for the others. Just pointing the one I liked and going for it.
Some of them were steep. I caught a few on the breaking point, feeling the tail lifting high and jumping up, with good timing, and then riding it, pushing the board against it, turning it down, walking to the nose (I don't cross step but I can go there) and feeling all the reactions under my feet.
On a side note, I saw hundreds of butterflies flying over the water, and even more on dry land, in the NP. Must have been a special day for that species, like the only day of their life or something similar. Well it was a good day indeed. :)