2014

And so there's no much left of this horrible year.

And I'm glad.

This should have been my third year of surfing but it's not. I'm missing six months.

Two posts ago I wrote that my waiting was finally over but unfortunately it's not. 

My mood changes like wind, my body is getting fatter, my mind it's stuck somewhere in the ocean and I feel like shit all the times.

In march I had so many great sessions and I was improving drastically, then the good swells passed, I had commitments, I slowed down, and then my health plummeted and that was it.

I don't know about the future. I hope 2014 will take away all the bad things and let me free.

There are people living all their life surfing basically every day. I love it as much as they do, but hey, seems like I'm asking too much. Few hours a month is too much. 

Please, please, please, let me free.