09 January 2014
Running to the beach
Isn'it a great feeling when you can just leave what you are doing and go surfing?
I find it amazing.
Even though it's not immediate for me.
After months of nothing finally the wind turned right. Waves are small but not messed up anymore.
According to the forecasts this week is surfable every day, and the next one too. And the swell period will increase a bit.
Obviously this didn't happen last weekend. The wind waited to monday night to do its job. I had my stupid session at Bulcok Beach, and now the locals are surfing every day while I'm stuck in the city.
But yesterday I couldn't wait. Wait for saturday and the summer crowd. I had to get a taste of it.
I asked two hours permission, run to the train station, waited 18 mins for that stupid train, run home, got changed, free of shoes and shirts and stuff, jumped on the car and drove for more than one hour (thanks commuters!) to Coolangatta.
I was paddling at 4.40pm.
I lasted two hours. It rained and it was the coldest day in weeks.
I went back in, dried up, and drove back home in the dark.
Dead tired but happy.
If only Queensland had the daylight saving like the rest of the western world, it could be easier.
But that seems to be somehow too difficult for queenslanders. God knows why. But this is another matter.
What matter is: I still feel good for yestarday session.
What a great feeling!