19 April 2016

Health & surf

March has been a bad month and April is working hard to be worst.
When you’r sick, in bed or on the couch, with pain and all, the idea of surfing seems so far that it’s hard to believe to be able to drive 2 hours, run to the water, paddle for hours and catch waves.
Surfing becomes a dream and you are not sure it was true at all. At the same time, surfing keeps you wanting to get back there as soon as possible.

Last Saturday I’ve been back in the water. I had no energy and almost gave up fighting the white water.
Then I caught some waves and my soul felt much, much better.
I hope the ocean will let me have fun this autumn. I need it.

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Coolangatta surfing - last Saturday afternoon


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Marzo e’ stato un mese un po di merda e anche aprile per ora non ha scherzato.

Quando stai male l’idea di serfare diventa un miraggio, un sogno. Spesso, steso sul letto o sul divano in preda a dolori o malessere di vario tipo, sembra impossibile pensare di essere capace di guidare per due ore e correre in acqua, remare, saltare su e cavalcare un onda.
Surfare diventa una chimera e allo stesso tempo una speranza a cui agrapparsi.

Sabato scorso sono tornato in acqua. Non avevo forze e quasi quasi non riuscivo ad uscire oltre la breaking zone. Pero’ poi qualche onda l’ho presa e ho gioito.
Spero che il mare d’autunno mi consenta di divertirmi ancora. Ne ho bisogno.

2 comments:

  1. I've had some time out of the water lately, and I know I'll be frustrated when I get back in.

    But I also know I always come to love and appreciate surfing more for the time away.

    ReplyDelete
  2. I've had some time out of the water lately, and I know I'll be frustrated when I get back in.

    But I also know I always come to love and appreciate surfing more for the time away.

    ReplyDelete