22 January 2015


A friend of mine wants to go to Noosa on Saturday early in the morning.
Another one wants to go to Currumbin on Sunday, any time.
I’d like to surf both days but I’m not sure I’ve the strength to do that. Probably not yet.
Whatever I decide I’ll have two passengers in the car coming to the beach with me who don’t surf. Who’ll need to go to the toilet, have breakfast or lunch, or afternoon tea.. who wouldn’t enjoy it if it rains or if there’s no shade..
And who won’t let me be in the water at 6am. And not even 7am.
Life is a constant negotiation.
Those who surf every day without coming to term with relations and social life don’t live a real life. I refuse to accept them as real life.
And I dream about it.

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